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FAULTS
 

Washing Machine

FIXES
For any Electrical Testing of components or insulation you would be advised to disconnect the appliance from the mains power supply, and use a MeggerTM or similar type of Test Meter.
FILL
Machine is over filling

The problem here is the pressure switch is not operating, this can have a number of causes, either the switch is faulty, there is a hole in the pressure pipe or it has come off, or the most common reason is the pressure chamber is blocked. A Quick and easy wat to check the switch is remove the hose and blow into it and listen for one or more clicks, if you hear them it should be fine, however to be certain you would need to meter across the terminals at this point just to make sure conact is being aquired. A close inspection of the hose should tell if it is OK or not, whereas the chamber has to be removed and washed out to clear it. If it was screwed on then it will go back in the same position but if it was held on by a clip or glued in place then make a note of the hoses location because if it were put back wrongly positioned you could have more water in the drum than needed resulting in a possible flood.


The Machine just keeps filling
For the machine to keep filling it would indicate that there is a siphoning problem. Check the outlet hose is not running along the ground, it has to rise up then loop back down or the water will just run straight down the drain. If the problem only happens after the first pump out it would indicate the end of the outlet hose is lower than the drum or there is no air break around the outlet hose. (The stand pipe should be larger in diameter than the hose from the machine).

Not taking in powder:
Unless you have a cold fill only machine, the powder is washed down by hot water, so if it is not, then the hot valve is not working. The hot water pipes tend to kink after a time and this prevents water from passing, or it could be scale from the hot tank clogging the filter in the solenoid (this occurs if work has been done on the plumbing recently), the other possibility is thesolenoid valvecould be faulty.

UP
HEAT
No wash fills agitates a bit then stops
Check the heater connections or thermostat also the connections on the timer, (here you are looking for a burnt out terminal or wire). The machine would have stopped in heat pause, and is waiting for the water to reach the correct temperature before advancing on. If you have an 'Economy' button on your machine, you could find that by pressing that the machine carries on working OK. On some Machines the Economy button cuts out the heater. However this will not work if there is a terminal fault on the timer.

Water boils
This happens when the thermistor goes open circuit. Check for broken wires on or connecting to the thermistor, if they are all OK then replace the thermistor. They can be located on the front of the machine or as part of the heater, these ones are not normaly sold separately which would mean replacing the heater itself

UP
WASH
No Drum action
If the motor is not turning at all, the obvious culprits are the motor brushes but if these are OK and it has a spin module with two wires on the top marked F & N you could try shorting these out, if it is the module the motor will go into fast spin straight away so be aware( this procedure should only be attempted by a competent engineer ). If there is no spin module check the wires in the motor plug these are notorious for breaking internally so give each one a tug. The older Hotpoint models had a motor choke with a pink and gray wire connecting it to the motor; if you have one of these the pink wire is normally the culprit. The timer can cause problems of this type, check for burnt connections or of course it could be the motor itself.

UP
RINSE

      My Machine won't rinse

If the machine stops on the rinse cycle every time it would indicate that the cold valve is faulty or your cold water supply is not getting through to the machine. Check the cold tap and hose first by turning off the tap and disconnecting the hose from the machine, hold it over the sink or bucket and turn the tap on just a fraction to start with to see if water is getting through, if it is then open it up a bit more to make sure it is flowing freely, if that is OK then replace it and check the solenoid on the valve. If you have a double valve i.e. a valve with two solenoids on, the easiest way to test is to change them over or at least the wiring connections, one of the two wires is common to both so just change the other wire from each, put the machine on a rinse cycle to test it , this will tell you if it is the solenoid or not, it is not a repair, you will need a new solenoid valve Make sure the power to the machine is turned off before attempting any repair.

UP
PUMP
Not emptying
If you can hear the pump running then there is a blockage, either in the sump or the outlet hose. You will need to bail the water out of the machine before attempting to locate and rectify the blockage. Some machines are fitted with a door lock that prevents you from opening the door when there is water present, so the hose from the switch to the pressure chamber has to be disconnected first, with these machines. Other types of machine just require the power to be switched off (from the wall socket). With this type of interlock you may have to wait a few minutes for the lock to disengage. If the water in the drum is below the door level you would be safe to open it. If not, tilt the machine backwards, put something under it to hold it in that position and open the door, bail the water out with a mug or sponge. When it is as empty as you can get it, stand the machine upright again. Next, tilt the machine forward and prop it up. Then remove the lower inspection panel and slide a shallow bowl or deep dish under the sump to catch any water that may be left in the drum when you remove it. Undo the retaining clamp, remove the sump assembly and the filter is inside. If the filter is clear you may have a blockage in the outlet hose. Remember to unplug the machine from the power supply before attempting any maintenance/repair work on it. If the washing machine is full of water at the end of a wash and the pump does not seem to be running, the cause could be that either the pump is faulty or the impellor jammed; alternatively you may have a faulty wiring connection. This can be confirmed by lowering the outlet hose into a bucket and checking to see if water flows out. If water does not flow out, there is almost certainly a blockage in the sump or outlet hose (see above). In order to confirm this, perform a continuity test on the pump and wiring with a Megger, or similar test meter.

UP
SPIN
The drum is stuck and will not turn.
There is an item of clothing wedged between the inner and outer drum, possibly a handkerchief. The easiest way to get at it would be by removing the heater, although this could also be the most costly, if you can't replace it you will need a new one. So the safest way would be through either the front or back plate, unless you are unlucky and have a machine were the tub splits in the center.

The Washing machine has emptied but will not go into spin, it turns as though it wants to but then stops.
The most common cause for this is the pressure chamber being blocked, or the pressure switch not resetting, either way the machine thinks it still has water in it and will not spin. An easy way to check is to remove the hose connected to the pressure switch and listen for a click, this will happen the instant the hose is removed so be aware, if you hear a click it means the switch has reset so the chamber is blocked but if there is no sound then either you missed it or the switch is at fault. To test the switch you may have to remove it because you will need to blow into it and listen for one or more clicks as the different levels set. Be aware that some of the older machines have multi level switches, whilst the newer ones only have a single level.

As soon as I turn the machine on it goes into spin.
The problem is the Tacho Generator on the motor is faulty or come off, some times the screw holding it on has just come undone and it has fallen off or the outer casing has come adrift.

UP
NOISY
i
The machine makes a very load rumbling
when it spins
If Your inner drum rumbles as you turn it by hand and there is up and down movement with it then you most likely have a bearing fault, that diagnosis is the quick and easy part however doing the repair will take a bit longer. Depending on the make and model of your machine the procedure will in most cases involve the disassembling of the outer container, either by just removing the front or rear plate of the container or you may need to remove the container from the cabinet altogether so it can be split in half. This procedure is necessary to gain access to the bearings. We have 3 sets of videos here, the first is of a Hotpoint WM11 which is the same as any in the 95 series, the second is for the Hotpoint WF which is the same as the Hotpoint WMA/WMM/SCR series and the third video does not involve dismantling the container because the bearing carrier is on the outside and this is for the Ariston A1324UK which would also cover a number of other makes and models of a similar drum construction. All three bearing change procedures are different and there are still others not covered by these videos.

Scrapping noise
A scrapping noise when the drum rotates is more often than not caused by a bra wire coming adrift and locating itself under the heater, sometimes if you are lucky it will not have got that far and will be protruding through one of the holes in the drum, but if it can't be seen, either the heater has to come out or access gained to the inside of the container through whichever rout is applicable i.e. front or back plate.

Noisy banging on spin.

Hotpoint /Creda
If the machine sounds normal on the wash but starts to get very loud when it comes to the spin, the chances are one of the balance weights are loose, the normal one to come loose is the top but if this is tight then check the other one which is either on the front of the drum or underneath it, it only has to move a few centimeters and this will cause it to sound excessively noisy. If both balance weights are OK open the door and try moving the inner drum up and down, there is a certain amount of movement but not much. If you are not sure remove the lid and watch the pulley as you lift the drum, if it moves outward, then it is possibly the aluminum bearing housing in the drum that has worn, (this only really happens when you have previously had the bearings changed. They go before the housing). If this is the case you will need a new container.

Drum banged now door seal is all twisted

Hotpoint/Creda

This is another case of the machine jumping out of its suspension. There are a number of reasons why this would happen but only one cause, ( The machine went into spin with an unbalanced load). Once you have replaced the container in its suspension check the motor or tacho and possibly the timer ( any of these would cause the motor to go into premature spin)

UP
OTHER
I get a small electric shock when I touch my washing machine or sink unit.
This type of electrical feedback is caused by not having a good earth on your washing machine, which can be caused by a faulty connection at the 13amp plug, on the machine or from your main supply box. If all the connections appear good then you may have a broken wire and would need to do a continuity test on the earth circuit to locate it. It would also be worth checking that the plug is wired correctly as well. Should all the tests prove positive then you have an earth fault in your domestic supply and for this it would be advisable to call in an electrician.

Torn Clothing
The most obvious reason that clothing gets torn is if the drum is over loaded or there are sharp objects in evidence such as zips or metal attachments to garments. Once these have been ruled out check for any sharp edges inside the drum, you may have to run your hand over the inside of the drum to feel for them because they will not always be obvious or very prominent (these catches or tears in the drum are caused by metallic objects such as coins ect getting between the inner and outer drum and hitting against it at a very high speed) this same scenario could also produce a leek in the container. The inner drums are made up from 3 separate pieces of metal; the back the front and the bit that wraps around and forms the cylinder. All these parts are spot welded together and under pressure these welds have been known to open out, so if you push down inside the drum at or close to the seams, if there is a broken weld the joint will open. Also look out for any tiny remnant of material that may still be lodged in any of the joints. Some washing machines have plastic lifters fitted which are also prone to becoming loose. Clothing (especially fine fabric) can get snagged under these lifters. Finding the cause could be the easy part, repairing it may be somewhat harder. If you do have a drum fault and don't feel confident about replacing it call out an engineer, at least you will know what needs replacing. If your machine is a Hotpoint WM or WMA washing machine then you can buy a repair manual from this site that will give step by step instructions on removing and refitting an inner drum. Unfortunately some of the newer machines have welded outer drums which mean they cannot be repaired and a complete new container and inner drum assembly is required.

I have to wait a long time for the door to open after a wash.
It could be the pressure chamber is blocked, if so you will probably notice more water in the machine and the cloths coming out wetter than usual. Removing the pipe from the pressure switch and blowing down it may resolve the problem for a few washes but the chamber will need to be removed and cleaned properly for a lasting solution.

Drum lopsided

Hotpoint/Creda

If the container appears to be lopsided when looked at through the door opening, it could be that it has either jumped out of one of the suspension units or one of the suspension rods have snapped, to confirm this remove the lid and if the container is laying to one side then that is what has happened. The easiest way to replace them is to lay the machine on its side, being careful not to damage the timer or any modules that may be vulnerable. You can now gain access from underneath.

The Drum is all floppy

Hotpoint/Creda WM & 95 series

If there is a rattling sound when you move the drum backwards and forwards it could possibly be one of the top springs have snapped, this would also cause the pulley to rub on the back of the cabinet when washing, which would then make a scraping noise as well. Normally you can bend the end of the broken spring and it will be as good as new, or you can opt for one of the up graded versions which are far stronger but you will have to buy from a stockiest

Water leaking from behind the front panel
The most common cause for any leak on a washing machine is a hole in the door seal, just because you cannot see one on first inspection does not mean there is not one there. Check in all the folds and creases or along the edges where it bends, these are the usual places because they are points where items rub it i.e. zippers on jeans ect.

Door flew open during wash.
This problem is rare but has caused a lot of concern, and rightly so. The reason the door has opened is most likely caused by the machine going into spin while the load is out of balance, this makes the drum lurch upward, which also causes it to jump out of its suspension mountings, but during its erratic motion it hits the door bowl from the inside with enough force to break the door catch mechanism and push the door open. Items to be replaced will probably be door trim, interlock, suspension, and may even include the timer and/or module.

Belt burnt through
This would only happen if the inner drum was prevented from turning, which is normally caused by an item of clothing getting caught between the inner drum and the container. Even if the drum feels free now there is something there that shouldn't be, and must be located and removed or the same problem will occur again.

Door release lever does not work every time.

Hotpoint/Creda

If the door release lever is intermittent it could be the latch fitment on the door trim has broken. To test it, with the door open operate the lever and see if the white latch plate comes away from the door trim (the screws will be in place but the plate will move) if this is the case a new door trim is needed if not it could be the pecker on top of the motor has come loose.

 
FAULTS
 

Washer Dryer

FIXES
UP
FILL
The Machine just keeps filling
For the machine to keep filling it would indicate that there is a siphoning problem. Check the outlet hose is not lower than the drum or if the problem only happens after the first pump out it would indicate the end of the outlet hose is lower than the drum or there is no air break around the outlet hose. (The stand pipe should be larger in diameter than the hose from the machine).

Machine is over filling
The problem here is the pressure switch is not operating, this can have a number of causes, either the switch is faulty, there is a hole in the pressure pipe or it has come off, or the most common reason is the pressure chamber is blocked. To check the switch you have to blow into it and listen for one or more clicks, if you hear them it's fine, a close inspection of the hose should tell if it is OK or not, whereas the chamber has to be removed and washed out to clear it. If it was screwed on then it will go back in the same position but if it was held on by a clip or glued in place then make a note of the hoses location because if it were put back wrongly positioned you could have more water in the drum than needed resulting in a flood.

UP
HEAT
No wash the machine fills agitates a bit then stops

Check the heater connections or thermostat also the connections on the timer, (here you are looking for a burnt out terminal or wire). The machine would have stopped in heat pause, and is waiting for the water to reach the correct temperature before advancing on. If you have an 'Economy' button on your machine, you could find that by pressing that the machine carries on working OK. On some Machines the Economy button cuts out the heater. However this will not work if there is a terminal fault on the timer, neither should it be used as a long term remedy because you will be doing cold washes all the time.

UP
WASH
Grit on my washing

 
The small pieces of what look and feel like grit, are in fact lime scale that has formed on the other side of the drum and the inside of the container, you will also get quite a lot on the heater element as well. The reason you are getting it on your washing now would be that the machine has recently had a violent banning session i.e. an out off balance load which made the drum bang from side to side, this jarred free some of the lime scale and it later appeared on your washing as grit. Put the machine on a service wash (a hot wash with powder but no clothes in it) and let it go right through the cycle to the end, this should remove most of the residue from inside the drum. (You may find it necessary to clean the filter or sump hose if there was a lot of lime scale present.) 

UP
RINSE

My Machine wont rinse
If the machine stops on the rinse cycle every time, it would indicate that the cold solenoid valve is faulty or your cold water supply is not getting through to the machine. Check the cold tap and hose first by turning off the tap and disconnecting the hose from the machine, hold it over the sink or bucket and turn the tap on just a fraction to start with to see if water is getting through, if it is then open it up a bit more to make sure it is flowing freely, if that is OK then replace it and check the solenoid on the valve. Washer Dryers have a triple valve on the cold side, one is for the wash and rinse one for the fabric conditioner and one for the condenser. Before you interchange any wires or solenoids first find which one goes to the condenser, and leave that one alone. Now change the wires between the other two solenoids and select a rinse cycle to test it , this will tell you if it is the solenoid or not, it is not a repair, you will need a new valve or at least a new solenoid. Make sure the power to the machine is turned off before attempting any repair.

UP
PUMP

Sometimes the machine will not empty

 
If the sump, filter and associated pipes are free from congestion and blockages the other reason would be the pump. Although it may run perfectly some times, the new generation of pumps are prone to staling, unlike the old type that ran for ever. If the pump is beginning to sound noisy it could be the inner bearing (such as it is) don't try to replace it they are not replaceable, change the pump, because once they start playing up you will have to change it in the end anyway.   

UP
SPIN

The Washing machine will not go into spin, it turns as though it wants to but then stops.
The most common cause for this is the pressure chamber being blocked, or the pressure switch not resetting, either way the machine thinks it still has water in it and will not spin. An easy way to check is to remove the hose connected to the pressure switch and listen for a click, this will happen the instant the hose is removed so be aware, if you hear a click it means the switch has reset so the chamber is blocked but if there is no sound then either you missed it or the switch is at fault. To test the switch you may have to remove it because you will need to blow into it and listen for one or more clicks as the different levels set. Be aware that some of the older machines have multi level switches, whilst the newer ones only have a single level.

The drum is stuck and will not turn.
There is an item of clothing wedged between the inner and outer drum, possibly a handkerchief. The easiest way to get at it would be by removing the heater, although this could also be the most costly, if you can't refit it you will need a new one. So the safest way would be through either the front or back plate, unless you are unlucky and have a machine were the tub splits in the center.

As soon as I turn the machine on it goes into spin.
The problem is the Tacho Generator on the motor is faulty or come off, some times the screw holding it on has just come undone and it has fallen off or the outer casing has come adrift. With the older Hotpoint motors you can refit the Tacho but on the newer ones you will probably need a new motor.

UP
DRY

My washing comes out from the dryer hot but wet.
This is normally caused by the internal ducts of the condenser getting clogged with fluff from previous drying cycles. The only really effective solution here is to remove the condenser and properly clean it out, making sure all the little water holes are free from fluff and unclogged. The other cause is if you have a faulty solenoid valve or water inlet restriction, this would prevent the condenser function on the dryer from working.   

UP
OTHER

I have to wait a long time for the door to open after a wash.
It could be the pressure chamber is blocked, if so you will probably notice more water in the machine and the cloths coming out wetter than usual. Do not try blowing down the pipe leading to it, this may give a short term solution but it will need to be removed and cleaned out thoroughly

Water leaking from behind the front panel
The most common cause for any leak on a washing machine or washer drier is a hole in the door seal, just because you cannot see one on first inspection does not mean there is not one there. Check in all the folds and creases or along the edges where it bends, these are the usual places because they are points where items rub it i.e. zippers on jeans ect. Unlike the normal washing machine a washer drier has an air inlet at the top front of the drum, this can cause a leak or a build up of condensation if the seal is faulty.

Belt burnt through
This would only happen if the inner drum was prevented from turning, which is normally caused by an item of clothing getting caught between the inner drum and the container. Even if the drum feels free now there is something there that shouldn't be, and must be located and removed or the same problem will occur again.

Door flew open during wash.
This problem is rare but has caused a lot of concern, and rightly so. The reason the door has opened is most likely caused by the machine going into spin while the load is out of balance, this makes the drum lurch upward, which also causes it to jump out of its suspension mountings, but during its erratic motion it hits the door bowl from the inside with enough force to break the door catch mechanism and push the door open. Items to be replaced will probably be door trim, interlock, suspension, timer and/or module. (Check motor for tacho fault).

Door release lever does not work every time.

Hotpoint/Creda

If the door release lever is intermittent it could be the latch fitment on the door trim has broken. To test it, with the door open operate the lever and see if the white latch plate comes away from the door trim (the screws will be in place but the plate will move) if this is the case a new door trim is needed if not it could be the pecker on top of the motor has come loose.

 
FAULTS
 

Tumble Dryer

FIXES
UP
HEAT

No heat on tumble drier
The obvious things to look at are the thermostats and heaters but on some tumble driers a reverse timer has been fitted (allowing the drum to rotate in the opposite direction). Unlike the conventional timer this one cannot be operated by the user but is controlled by the main timer and  when it is activated the heater is turned off. So if your machine has reverse tumble it could be that it is stuck in reverse. You will have to watch it for about 15 minutes or so to see if it revolves in the opposite direction, if not, it could be the main timer needs replacing. 

UP
TUMBLE

I replaced the motor now the drum won't go round
Tumble Driers have induction motors that are either capacitor or relay start, so it is possible to wire them up the wrong way round, in which case the motor would go in the opposite direction. If there is a jockey pulley fitted and the motor was wired the wrong way the belt would slip under load and the drum would not revolve.

UP
NOISE

Scraping noise
 Depending on where the noise is coming from determines what you should be looking for. If the noise is at the rear then it could be the drum rubbing on the cabinet: the cabinet has been dented or the rear bearing has worn, the other possibility is the fan on the motor is snagging on something, once again the cabinet could be dented.
If the noise is from the front it could be dirt or grit on the edge of the front plate (where the bearing pads are) or the bearing pads may be worn. Some tumble driers have a tension pulleys that keep the belt taught, if the belt breaks these pulleys could rub on the motor shaft (so if the drum is not going round but you hear a scraping sound, it could be this)  

UP
OTHER

 

Burning smell

The most probable cause for this would be fluff on the heater element. (This particular video is about how to replace a heater but it has been included just to show where the heater is and how easy it is to get to).

All fabric lose fiber when washed or tumble dried, and it is this fiber that can work its way onto the heater, if the outlet hose or opening is blocked or restricted in some way, either by a build up of fluff or a kink in the hose. It is better to use a vacuum cleaner to remove any fluff around the heater element rather than a brush, also vacuum the inside of the cabinet as this will almost certainly have a build up of fluff as well. Do not be surprised to smell burning directly after cleaning the element, this is normal, it is just a residue of small particles that have resettled on the element and they will burn off in no time.

 
FAULTS
 

Spin Dryer

FIXES
UP
SPIN

Still water in spin Dryer

 
This only applies to spin dryers that pump out (have an outlet hose) as opposed to a spout on the side of the tub.

Either there is a blockage in the outlet pipe or the pump is not functioning properly. As these machines very rarely get blockages the odds are the pump is at fault. Turn the machine upside down and remove the base, the pump will be attached to the motor and driven by a thin belt, if this belt is in good condition then it would probably be the pump itself, sometimes the impellor comes adrift from the pulley spindle so it appears to be turning OK but in fact only the pulley is turning. Replace the pump (don't mess about trying to repair it, in the long run it is cheaper to replace it.)

UP
NOISY

Jumps about
The usual cause for this is the load being uneven or poorly distributed, make sure the heavy items are at the bottom i.e. towels woolens or any item that holds water. The mechanical reasons could be that the rubber mountings are weak or broken. If the tub looks really off centre this could be the reason, (no drum looks perfectly central when viewed from the top so don't worry if it is a bit lopsided)

UP
OTHER

 
The drum still goes round after I open the lid
The brake is not being activated, which could mean the main spring has snapped (they normally work with one end on a pivot pin and the other end connected to a strong spring) or you may just have to adjust the brake cable.

 
FAULTS
 

Condenser Dryer

FIXES
UP
HEAT

The heaters and stats are fine but they still do not come on
A number of condenser dryers have a reverse timer fitted refer to Tumble Dryer

UP
DRY

My washing is hot but damp

 

The most common reason for this is that the large condenser filter is blocked and needs to be cleaned, usually by placing it under a running tap or hose. Another cause would be if the appliance were in a confined space such as a small cupboard with the door closed (there would not be sufficient air flow to allow the condenser system to work properly) In this case just leave the cupboard door open.

UP
DISMANTLE

Motor on TDC30P/N/S/YS Condenser Tumble Dryer
(Hotpoint Manual no 5405770)
To the best of our knowledge the following information is correct and sufficient for the purpose intended. However we accept no responsibility for any omissions, losses, damage, or injury however caused either directly or indirectly by using the information gained from these instructions. The appliance should be disconnected from the mains power supply before commencement of any repair.

The motor on the Hotpoint TDC30 is held in place by two screws securing the mounting to the under side of the cabinet. However it is also linked to other components via the impellor and shaft.
1: Remove the top cover
2: Undo the screws and take off the right hand side panel, then tilt machine backwards (or lay it on its back)
3: Undo the two motor bracket retaining screws and stand machine upright again.
4: Rotate the drum so that an indented section is directly over the top air duct moulding.
5: Unclip both sections of the air duct and position the upper section out of the way out side the cabinet
6: Remove the belt from the jockey pulleys.
7: Take off the heater cover and remove the hose clip and impeller from the motor shaft, undo the two screws inside the rear ducting. Remove wiring connections.
8: By rotating the motor and bracket anti-clockwise it can now be lifted from the base of the cabinet.
9: Ease the assembly forward so the impellor shaft clears the rear ducting.
10: Now the belt can be removed from the shaft and front rotor, then when it is out the hose clip and front rotor can be removed.
11: Undo the two screws holding the motor to the frame and separate.

This video is of a motor replacement on a Hotpoint CTD00 condensing tumble dryer which is slightly different from the description above.


UP
TUMBLE

            

               No drum action

 

If you can hear the motor turning but the drum is not then it is quite likely that the belt has broken. This is not a simple job to replace, as on most condenser dryers it requires the removal of at least part of the cabinet and sometimes even the motor or drum, so it would be better left to an engineer.

UP
OTHER

 
FAULTS
 

Dishwasher

FIXES
UP
TEMPERATURE

      Dishwasher stops/Not hot

 
Dishwashers tend to have different thermostats for different temperature settings, therefore it could work fine on a low setting but stick on a higher setting, they are also located in different places, they could be Touching the heater, Under the cabinet or Inside the door shell. However if the heater does not come on at all, it could be the heater itself or a wiring connection. Check from the heater back up to the timer. Any electrical testing should always be done with the aid of a Megger or equivalent test meter and never with the appliance connected to the main power supply.

UP
CONTROLS

            Indicator arm broken

 
The early Bosch dishwashers (which were adapted and used by a number of other manufacturers, Hotpoint for one) had a visual indicator that moved within a display area on the fascia panel of the door. This indicator moved as the control knob revolved because of the gear mesh on the arm which located into teeth on the knob. The final teeth on the knob are missing so when it has revolved180 degrees the indicator is pulled back to its start position by way of a spring. If this spring breaks the indicator will remain at which ever end it broke at. The machine will still function perfectly well, but you will not know what part of the cycle it is in.

UP
CLEANING

 
Dishes not cleaned properly

One reason a dishwasher fails to clean adequately is the blockage of some of the holes in the spray arms, these must be kept clear from pips and pieces of corn ect which manage to get past the filters. The holes are not just to get the dishes wet but also to propel the arms around so they spray water over the entire contents of the cabinet. Blockages in the supply line would also affect the water pressure, and some machines are fitted with Water Turbines and High Pressure Sensors; these machines would show error code indications if there were water flow problems. The quality of washing can also be affected by the cleanliness of the wash water, and on a number of dishwashers a Turbidity Sensor was installed to detect this problem, but it was a bit self defeating in that after continual use the powder used in dishwashers being rather abrasive tended to mist over the lens, which then gave off a false reading, causing the machine to either wash for longer than needed or empty the water and refill with clean, which was exactly what the sensor was installed to eliminate. If there is a fault in the heating circuit, either with the heater or related thermostats/thermistors and the water never reaches the required heat, this would result in poor wash results as would inferior washing powder or poor distribution of load.  

Some of the possible causes of poor wash results are:- 

Loading large or tall items in the lower basket which stops the arm revolving.
Upper spray arm split along seam.
Upper spray arm blocked.
Under dosing of powder causing foam and reducing upper spray arm water pressure.
Blocked strainers reducing water to circulating pump, therefore reducing upper spray arm water
pressure.
Low water quantity in machine.


Dishwasher blowing fuses.
Obviously there is an electrical fault, and the most common place for one in a Dishwasher is inside the door casing, the switches sometimes over heat at the terminals, or the rinse aid compartment leaks all over the wires that run underneath it causing the insulation to become less than adequate, but by far the most common of all is the ribbon cable that runs from the door controls under the door and into the base of the dishwasher. The constant opening of the door causes it to bend backwards and forwards as it passes under the door panel, this bending will and does break some of the wires which can cause a number of different faults, if it chafes on the cabinet it will blow the fuse.   

White coating on dishes
White coating on dishes that tastes of salt is possibly caused by a poor seating regeneration valve or, most likely by a defective salt cap gasket. While white cloudy film on glassware (that cant be washed off) is probably a surface deposit known as "silica scum" which can only effectively be removed under laboratory conditions but there are a few ways to prevent or slow down the process

1. Use less detergent where possible i.e.: when washing medium to lightly soiled items.
2. Do not use poor quality detergent.
3. Make sure that the rinse aid setting is correct. Lack of rinse aid could accentuate the problem.
4. Use a liquid rather than a powder detergent (for dishwashers) particularly if glassware is constantly being washed.
5. Take care not to overload machine.
6. Avoid washing poor quality glassware if possible.
7. Check the salt regeneration selling is correct for the water supply.
8. Check that the machine is filling correctly.
9. Check that the machine is rinsing correctly.
10. Check that the softener by-pass is working correctly.
11. If the dishwasher has programmes of less than 65°C use these in preference to 65°C programmes when washing glassware.

  


My white dishes are turning pink
This condition can be caused by a chemical reaction between dishwasher detergent and porcelain.
It would indecate that this porcelain is not dishwasher proof.
or it could be the formation of silicate scum on the dishes caused by using insufficient detergent.
Silicate scum absorbs iron and/or Manganese which is present in all water supplies. This colours the scum light brown or pink.
.   

Poor drying
Correct amount of Rinse Aid
The purpose of rinse aid when added to the water of a final rinse is to allow the water to run off the dishes as a complete film so that no water-run marks or calcium are left. To enable this to happen it is essential that the correct amount of rinse aid is dispensed. Too lift le does not reduce water tension sufficiently. Result: The water film breaks up into streaks which make shiny and clear drying impossible. After all the rest of the water has evaporated, marks are left which are especially noticeable on glass and cutlery as well as on items made from stainless steel.
Too much rinse aid leaves smear marks. As a result, the dishes look and feel greasy.
Setting Guide
Set dial to approximately mid position. From experience it is advisable to start with too little and to increase the amount until perfect results are obtained. This can be verified by holding the plate surface horizontal to incidental light at eye level. An even shine should be observed. The automatic rinse aid dispenser should then be adjusted accordingly.

Another reason for poor drying is if the door is opened and closed during the drying prosses this allowes the hot air to escape which has the effect of reducing drying efficiency.
  


Damaged Dishes
Chipping off the edges is not usually due to them raffling against one another during washing. Normally the weight of the dishes is sufficient to withstand the water pressure. Normal daily use of dishes causes microscopic cracks around the edges which fill with water during washing. During the heating period the water in these cracks expands and after several temperature changes the chips may break off. Chipping may on odd occasions be caused by overloading or by loading tightly together so that they cannot expand during heating.
  

Damaged glasses

Cloudy stains not caused by poor washing or drying, may be due to ring structures in the glass. These are minute cracks due to stress created during the manufacturing process. Particles may be washed off by hot water, leaving the surface with an etched and cloudy look. Similar results occur during hand washing but by using lower wash temperatures and milder detergents the effect takes longer to show.


Etched glassware can also be attributed to 100% softened water that is produced from a water softening plant that may be installed in the home. In this instance the customer can negotiate with the manufacturer of the softening plant to install a by-pass system to feed back approximately 5 degrees of hardness into the water supply, or put the appliance back on to the mains water supply and use salt as required.

  


Cutlery tarnishing or discolouring

1. Silver cutlery tarnishes when exposed to air. Stainless steel cutlery may show a coating on its surface after several washes if water has been allowed to evaporate on it i.e. if incorrect dose of rinse aid is used. Electrochemical reactions also have an effect and mixing various grades of stainless, bronze plated and silver cutlery will cause problems.


2. Nickel Silver (German Silver) is an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc, and when subjected to heat in dishwashing solutions the metal acquires a yellow colour.
Maintaining this alloy in attractive condition requires frequent polishing and it should not be washed in a dishwasher.


3. Pits and rust marks on stainless steel cutlery can usually be attributed to inferior quality stainless steel or the finished article not being highly polished during manufacture.
Certain food Soils have a damaging effect on the protective coating of stainless steel, particularly foods containing vinegar, fruit and ordinary table salt.
It should be noted that stainless steel should not be left in the humid atmosphere of the dishwasherfor too long after the end of the programme, since this denies the protective coating the healing effect of oxygen.


4. Bronze or bronze plated cutlery is subject to rapid tarnishing and should not be washed in the dishwasher.

5.Bright aluminium utensils may discolour or tarnish due to alkaline attack caused by certain minerals in the water. Removing these utensils before the final heated rinse should prevent further problems. Certain coloured aluminium utensils may discolour and should be washed manually.

  


Rusting inside the machine
Normally caused by migration of rust from non-stainless steel slivers alien to the machine or from external non-stainless steel nuts used for fixing heater clamps. General surface rusting may occur along the seams of the tub and can usually be removed by using a proprietary cleaner like Solvol Autosol or 3-in-i Chrome Cleaner.
  

Internal parts turning pink
Dark red coloured earthenware can sometimes produce this effect by migration of the colouring. More common, is dishware being loaded with large amounts of tomato ketchup? juice present or the precipitation of the iron content in the water causing staining because of insufficient detergent and or rinse aid dosage. The staining is not harmful but cannot be removed. .
  

Rainbow colouring on stainless steel utensils
This discolouration is usually caused by consistent underdosing of detergent, particularly if liquid detergent is being used.
  

Black marks on china
Usually caused by metal marks from spoons and knives. It can normally be removed by soaking the china in a mild bleach solution and washing or by gently rubbing with metal polish, wiping dry then washing.
  

      There is too much water in my dishwasher

 
If you are getting too much water in your dishwasher it could be because the pressure chamber is blocked or you may have a fault with the pressure switch. Pressure chambers are generally located inside the base of the sump housing at the bottom of the tub, but unlike the ones on washing machines they are not very easy to locate. Different manufacturers site them in varying places and there design also changes from machine to machine. To work on a pressure chamber it's advisable to remove all the water from the sump first which would entail taking the filters out and possibly the lower spray arm. If you are not sure where the pressure chamber is and you can get access to the under side of the dishwasher just follow the thin air pipe from the pressure switch to the section of moulding on the sump, that will be the reverse side of the chamber. If you remove this air pipe you may get a click as the switch resets, this would indicate that the chamber is blocked.

 
FAULTS
 

Electric Cooker

FIXES
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TEMPERATURE

  

Temperature in oven fluctuates
 
The temperature in an electric oven does fluctuate a bit, and although normally very reliable there are a number of points that would make this fluctuation even greater, the obvious one is the oven thermostat and controls but it can also be affected by the fitting of the door. If the door seal is worn or badly fitted it should be replaced also check that the door hinges are locating correctly (this may sound silly but you can still open and close the oven door even if they are not fitting properly or are loose.) The other thing to check is the striker pin or latching mechanism on the door latch, make sure it is tight and not holding the door out too far which would allow hot air to escape from the oven.

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CONTROLS

The Hob works but I can't get the oven to come on

The timer has been activated, possibly when the controls were cleaned. There are so many types of timers used that it would not be possible to go through every one, but if you have the instruction booklet, that will tell you how to turn it off. If not then go to our User Manules link on the Home page of this site and down load one from your manufacturer. You'll probably find it's just a case of pressing a button or turning a control knob

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COOKING

 

My grill isn't working

Possible causes are the grill element, selector switch or if you have an oven which incorporates a grill as well it could be the door switch. To test any of these items you would need a Megger or some other form of electrical test equipment. Never try working on any appliance still connected to the mains, if the cooker is hard wired into a wall socket turn the mains off because unlike a Washing Machine, cookers draw more current and so use a 30Amp fuse. If you touch a live wire it will not blow the fuse, just you.

 
I have a lot of black bits on my cooking (from the oven)
The vent pipe in the oven has been covered or blocked, so the excess moisture and fumes have not been allowed to escape, they have instead stuck to the inside lining of the oven. Over time they have baked on and formed a crust which drops onto your cooking when it gets very hot. This vent pipe must be clear for the oven to work properly. You may also get excessive vapor or steam from the oven when you open the door.

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OTHER

I get a loud bang from inside the oven after it has been on for a while
The banging you can hear is the inside panels expanding with the heat, some times cheap metal dishes you use to cook in can have the same effect. Unfortunately I have not found a sustainable cure for this problem except to replace the item which is distorting with the heat, whether it is the lining or the cooking dish. (If the oven is under a year old call in the manufacturer and get them to replace it)

Air blowing out of the oven door
On the majority of ceramic hob cookers there is a cooling fan situated between the hob and the oven, this fan blows air through a section of ducting fitted to the top of the oven cavity. Air is drawn in through the rear of the oven cabinet and blown out through a grill just above the oven door. The oven vent is located just under the fan and any moisture or fumes from the oven get sucked up by the fan and blown out. Power to the fan motor is governed by a thermostat on top of the oven outer lining and will keep the fan motor running even after the cooker has been turned off. These fans are in the form of a cylindrical tube with blades on, which pivot at one end in a small rubber bush whilst the other end is attached to the motor. From time to time they do cause vibration and are somewhat noisy; usually this can be cured by a drop of oil but may require a new fan assembly which would include the motor.

I have a burn mark on the wall at the rear of my oven
All electric ovens have a vent pipe inside which allows the fumes and excessive moisture to escape, if this vent pipe is too close to the wall, the escaping moisture stick to it and produce a brown stain which in some instances look like a burn or scorch mark. Do not cover this pipe opening, instead either move the cooker away from the wall slightly or place some heat resistant lining on the wall (Baking foil works).

Oven door not closing properly
Drop down oven doors use a form of cantilever assembly with a spring attached to counter balance the weight of the door, these hinge assemblies come in many shapes and sizes, and usually rely on one section being bolted to the door whilst one or more levers hook into the cooker frame. Should the spring become week or damaged over time, the door may not close with as much force as before and could possibly allow heat from the oven to escape. Side closing doors use the more conventional pivoting type of hinge where a pin attached to the upper and lower edges of the door fit into a two separate brackets attached to the side of the cooker cabinet. These brackets can come loose and although the door may still close it leaves a gap where heat from the oven can escape.

Cookers with this type of hing assembly also incorporate a striker pin on the inside edge of the door which fits into an opening in the cabinet, at the back of this opening is a latch assembly that grips the pin and holds the door shut when closed, this striker pin can come loose and actually prevent the door from closing properly.


How to set the clock on a cooker
There are so many different clocks used on cookers that it would be impractical to even attempt explaining how they work or the different functions each one uses, or in fact how to set them because they are all different. The best advice we can give is to go to the manufacturers' web site and download a free copy of the user manual for your model which will have the relevant clock setting instructions. We have listed a number of the more popular website links under the heading of USER MANUALS on our Home page

Door Glass not fitting properly
There are a number of different types of door glass arrangements installed in cooker oven doors; some are small windows to see into the oven whilst others are practically the whole door, then there is the inner lining type that slots in and out for easy cleaning but the main thing is that the glass usually has an air break between the inner glass (the piece closest to the inside of the oven) and the outer glass (the section that is exposed to the touch). On most doors the glass is held in place by clips or brackets tightened onto a heat resistant seal, so the door must be split to gain access to these fixings. In most cases it is easier to remove the door from the cooker first.

FAULTS
 

Electric Hob

FIXES
UP
PLATES

It takes much too long to boil a saucepan

A hob element is perfectly flat and therefore the saucepans base must also be perfectly flat for the heat to cover the largest surface area. If you have just converted to an electric hob you could find your old saucepans are no longer any good because they may be slightly bowed on the base. If the pans are all OK then it could possibly be the hot plate or the control, but because you are getting some heat there is no easy way to determine which component needs replacing. (Call an engineer give them the headache) or replace both parts

Solid Hot plate blows fuses every now and then

The joint between a Solid hot plate and the hob top unfortunately is not water tight and therefore if a saucepan or kettle boils over, moisture can seep between the two and ultimately end up shorting out across the terminals or get into the under side of the element and casing and rot the heat resistant insulation . For these reasons it is advised that should a situation arise where a pan over boils the liquid is moped up as soon as possible.

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CONTROLS

 
FAULTS
 

Refrigeration

FIXES
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FRIDGE

Water in Fridge
 This is almost certainly caused by the hole inside at the rear of the fridge being blocked. This hole is situated at the bottom of the gully and lets the water from the evaporator run through to the dissipater at the back when the unit goes into defrost. To clean it out use a piece of wire (an old coat hanger) will do fine, it will only go in about 5 to 8 mm if the hole goes from front to back so don't force it in any further because when you hit a restriction it will be the down pipe. However if the hole goes down towards the base of the fridge then it will travel considerably farther. What is causing the blockage is slime or a small piece of fibber/paper which stuck to evaporator when it was freezing. Insert the wire and drag it out, you may need to do this several times to clear the blockage. To test if it is clear, empty a small amount of water into the gully and see if it flows away. (Remember the water ends up in the Dissipater on top of the compressor, so don't overdo the testing or it will overflow).

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FREEZER

There is a puddle of water under my freezer

The most likely cause for this is the insulation in the freezer cabinet has broken down,. feel under the base of the freezer and if you can feel a large block of ice (or any ice at all) it will indicate that this is the problem. Sorry but there is no repair for this fault and you will have to buy a new freezer.

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FROST FREE

 

The fridge is not working but my freezer is

The most likely cause for this is an ice blockage, and the easy way to tell is if you open the freezer door but keep the fridge door closed you should hear the motor running, if so the easy fix is just to turn the whole thing off for about 3 days and it will clear itself. (Hopefully you have a good friend that will store your frozen produce for a couple of days) If however the motor is not running then you will have to replace the thermistors, they are located behind the back panel in the freezer compartment. (these units do not have thermostats).

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OTHER

 The compressor does not start
The first thing to check is the power supply. You could have an open circuit on the thermostat or the PTC may be open circuit or have a bad connection. It may just be the ambient temperature is too low (That is the outside temperature is lower than the setting on the thermostat) or it may be the compressor is faulty.

 The compressor hums and tries to start
It could be that the compressor is seized, or you may have a blockage in the system. The PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) which is used as a start device for the compressor, may be faulty or have a bad connection, it may be the PTC is too hot in which case just turn it off for about 15 minutes to cool down and try again.

 Evaporator defrosts intermittently
Is the door closing properly? You could have an intermittent blockage in the system, a faulty thermostat or if it is a larder fridge it could just be its normal operation.

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